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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.